Let’s face it: the Italian culinary landscape here in Jo’burg is as bland as a faded Venetian watercolour. Or so I thought.
I have always had a particular penchant for pasta and although I make it at home, someone else’s version offers unexplored palates and plates. The quality of so-called Italian food produced by poseurs mostly has me scurrying back to my doppio zero flour, fresh garlic and chilli at home. Not that only Italian food is victim to pretend-chefs and cooks. But that for another day.
Gauteng offers a range of Italian foodie experiences, from the unpretentious mom & pop place, to white-napkin fine dining and relaxed hangouts for those in the know.
But still, hiccups exist. I was so excited when I discovered il Tartufo in Dunkeld, where the classic elegance of the place even extends to the two Italian businessmen who own the place and make guest appearances in designer jeans.
What stands out is that the menu has no pretentions to ‘fusion’ or ‘modern’. These are dishes that have come across the ocean in the culinary memory banks of real Italian people. And they are cooked at il Tartufo, thus, and presented to those of us hungry for authentic Italian gastronomic experiences.
My friend – and favourite travelling and dining companion – Susan and I ordered a salad to share (R55) and were delighted: there it was, seemingly simple but fabulous with flavour, colour and crunchiness. And some great cheese, including authentic, creamy mozzarella, herbs, heavenly olive – and balsamic vinegar. I asked for a wedge of lemon, which I used instead.
For starters there is, for instance, a bean soup on offer (R75), flavoured with rosemary and served with grilled fillet of rabbit and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
The San Daniele prosciutto is of superlative quality, served with that buffalo mozzarella (R89). Carne all’Albese (wafer thin veal marinated in lime-flavoured olive oil and served with Parmesan as old as it should be, and knee-trembling truffle.
I’m not going to get into “then I had” here, but this is simply to illustrate that there’s no smarmy announcement that “we also serve pizza” here.
For mains I ordered the saddle of rabbit with truffle, served in puff pastry (R110). There was no puff, certainly no pastry, and the rabbit tasted like it had been a hare in a rush. But the flavour was in line with the quality of the restaurant.
Other carnes? Beef, pork cheek in chianti wine, chicken. Seafood, good-looking pasta, risotto of the day depending on ingredients. And here’s a thing: I’m by far not a dessert fan, but could give up French fry or ten for their Panna Cotta alla Violetta or Gelato alla Mandorla – almond ice cream with fresh coriander. Or lemon sorbet with ginger. Can you imagine?
The wine list is intelligent, meaning a good selection of local wines that make the food sing and won’t make your purse simper too much. Also good Italian ones.
My rating (what to call it?) is out of ten and includes the quality of the food. Is the menu tantalising? Toilets not off-putting (I can’t stand the unisex ones). Service non-existent? Obsequious? Informed? Wine list/availability. Do I feel comfortable there? Value of the experience.
I give the place 8 ½
Address: Hutton Court, Jan Smuts avenue (diagonally opposite Hyde Park Shopping Centre), Johannesburg.
Phone number 011 788 8948
More Jo’burg Italian dining experience next time.
